Experience A Live Buenos Aires Tango Orchestra

Tango is everywhere in Buenos Aires and seeing a live Buenos Aires tango orchestra is a great way to experience the intense music behind this most sensual of dances.

In Buenos Aires, we experienced a multitude of different tango orchestras from huge twenty piece bands at tango shows to small four piece groups in the dance halls. We even stumbled upon a small orchestra playing on the cobbled streets of San Telmo.

Enjoy a street performance in San Telmo

We saw our first live Buenos Aires tango orchestra quite by mistake. We were exploring the streets of San Telmo after the wonderful Sunday antiques fair at Plaza Dorego. While meandering up a busy street, which was completely awash with tourists, the distinctive sound of tango music got louder and louder. There, right in the street in front of us was an eight strong tango orchestra surrounded by a transfixed crowd.

When I laid my eyes on the bandoneons being played by three young Argentineans, I too was soon standing transfixed, staring at this fascinating group of musicans. I was completely blown away.

Seeing a tango orchestra for the first time can be quite a shock to the senses. There’s an awful lot going on with three separate and distinct sections, including strings (with violins, violas and cello) a rhythmic section (of double bass and piano) and a bandoneon section.

Watching the bandoneons being played was incredible, I loved the way the players energetically push and pull them apart, whilst frantically pressing the tiny keys at the end of the instrument. It was fascinating.

Experience authenticity at a local milonga

Often at milongas there would be impromptu performances. Rarely advertised, but obviously well planned. From tiny four-piece bands at Salon Canning to a touring Romanian 10-piece orchestra at the classy Niño Bien, the range of orchestras around was vast.

The first song performed by the orchestra is never danced to at a milonga. Instead the crowd savors the music at their tables and simply enjoys the intensity of the live music.

The smartly dressed gentlemen will tap their shiny shoes in time to the music and take the opportunity to eye up their next dance partner. The next few songs pumped out by the musicians are danced to with vigor.

Learn more about our experiences at milongas and the baffling amount of tango etiquette required just to get a dance.

The Kings of Tango
The performances were so wonderful we took our friends to see ‘Los Reyes Del Tango’ (or the Kings of Tango) at the fabulous Confiteria Ideal (Suipacha, 380). I’d heard these guys were one of the most energetic orchestras in town and well worth seeing.

At almost 1am the band shuffled up to start their performance. With an average age of 65, I wasn’t so sure how true this ‘energetic’ description would be. But they played with such frenetic vigor and passion that they created an electric atmosphere.

We sat totally enthralled by the entire evening; it was fantastic watching these experienced musicians creating such wonderful music whilst couples locked together in dance gracefully swept across the dance floor.

Witnessing live tango music being savored by true local dancers is the best way to experience a Buenos Aires tango orchestra. The Confiteria Ideal and Salon Canning were our two favorite spots for experiencing live tango music in an authentic environment.

Find out what’s going on at these great Milongas

Confiteria Ideal (Suipacha 380, Center) – Buenos Aires tango orchestras perform on most nights from Tuesday through Saturday. The ‘milongas’ start at 10.30pm and the orchestras start a little late, usually around 12am. There may even be an informal tango dance performance. Pick up a program of events from the centrally located Confiteria to be sure an orchestra is playing. Then arrive early to get a table and marvel at this aging dance hall whilst enjoying music and dance at this favorite Buenos Aires ‘milongas’.

Salon Canning (Scalabrini Ortiz 1331, Palermo) – Tango orchestras perform most Tuesdays at this popular ‘milonga’, dancing begins at 11pm and it is considered to be the ‘place to be seen’ by the exclusive tango crowd. Visit www.parakultural.com.ar to find out what’s going on. Click on ‘programacion’ and look for performances on Tuesdays - ‘Martes’. Call ahead to book, or arrive early to avoid disappointment. It’s a great spot to relax, have a drink and enjoy some of Buenos Aires most glamorous dancers in action.

Make sure you experience at least one Buenos Aires tango orchestra while staying in Argentina’s capital - the birthplace of tango. You’re unlikely to see a performance like this anywhere else in the world.

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