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| • Walk the length of the promenade and take in the renovated architecture and pleasant views • Take a break from the hustle and bustle, fumes and crowds with an afternoon in the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur. Just remember your sun cream and insect repellent • Treat yourself to a little luxury with a cocktail in the pool bar at the Faena Hotel and Universe. |
Puerto Madero is easily accessible on foot from Plaza de Mayo, but if you’re coming from another area of town, then you’d be better off getting a cab. There’s also the new tram that runs the length dikes making it easy to get from one end to the other. You can pick up this tram on Av. Alicia Moreau Justo.
The area was developed by Eduardo Madero who proposed transforming the cities mud flats into a series of modern basins and harbors that could serve a prospering city. It finally happened 4 years after this death, although not quite in the way it was supposed to. The port was never able to contend with the burgeoning international needs of a bustling capital city, but luckily the port at La Boca eased this.
On the west side, you’ll see four main dikes where most of the restaurants are housed in renovated warehouses which make the area famous. There’s also a long promenade alongside these dikes (dique) that makes for a nice stroll and alfresco dining. Docked in the dikes are some serious yachts – a testament to the money in this area today.
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You can walk to Dique 3 where you’ll find the Puente de la Mujer, an interesting modern bridge designed by Santiago Calatrava, a Spanish designer. The bridge was intended to look like a woman dancing tango, and you’ll need your imagination to glean this from this modern representation.
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Across the other side of the Diques, you’ll find more restaurants that give way to new high rise blocks of apartments and businesses. On this side of the diques you’ll also find the five star hotels of Sofitel and Faena Hotel and Universe as well as the four star Hilton. It’s on this side of the diques that you’ll find real estate prices up to US$4,000 per square meter compared to the average of around $1,000.
The office blocks and up market, but soulless penthouses of Puerto Madero with their amazing views over the Rio del Plata also take in views of the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur. What was once wasteland, formed from the mineral rich sediment dredged from the Rio de la Plata, is now a mineral rich, low lying marshland and home to a hundreds of different species of birds, grasses and rodents. It’s a pleasure to walk around the gravel paths of this reserve, taking in the views and having a welcome break from the noise and fumes of Microcenter.
The only downside of the marshlands is that it’s prime breeding ground for mosquitoes, so if you’re walking around Puerto Madero or dining outside (or even in) one of the restaurants, be sure to wear plenty of insect repellent. The mosquitoes in Buenos Aires seem to be fairly indiscriminate between night and day, so be prepared!
The number of restaurants in this area is phenomenal and the prices they charge for the value you get is a pretty disappointing. They’re targeting the tourist and aiming the prices at your wallet.
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When you walk along the west side of the diques, you’ll find everything from TGI Friday to touristy steakhouses. On virtually all occasions that we’ve eaten in Puerto Madero, we’ve left disappointed. Either the food was terrible or the service was shocking! If you can, avoid the promenade and head into other parts of the city instead.
For drinking, Puerto Madero offers a lot more. There are plenty of modern bars, both sides of the diques. Again, they’re generally aimed at tourists and so the prices are high. For a really special treat, head to the Faena Hotel and Universe and sip a cocktail at their pool side bar – it’s out of this world.
If you’re still up for dancing into the early hours, then at Dique 4 you’ll find Opera Bay, a trendy nightclub housed in a building based on a ‘flattened’ Sydney Opera House – hence the name. From the outside terrace you can get superb views of the glistening lights of Puerto Madero whilst you take in the Latin base and beats.
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