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| • Walk around the cobbled streets of this oldy-worldy barrio and step inside a house built in the 1880s • Pick up a souvenir of Buenos Aires past from the antiques market at Plaza Dorrego • Be thrown back in time at El Viego Almacén whilst you watch an authentic tango show |
Although a haven for tourists, locals aren’t quite to so keen on the area. The crumbling buildings in desperate need of restoration give an almost derelict feel and the area certainly doesn’t feel safe at night. For those visiting at night, it’s best to take a cab both there and back to main areas, watch your bag (anywhere with lots of tourists attracts opportunist thieves).
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Located to the east of the Microcenter, San Telmo was once home to the rich families of Buenos Aires. After an outbreak of yellow fever and cholera, the rich built the up market areas of Recoleta and relocated there. Their grand houses were split into tenements where a family would occupy a single room.
Many of the houses are still occupied, even though they look in complete disrepair. The area is slowly being regenerated by locals as tourists are keen to stay in the area. You can stroll around the inside of one of these grand houses at the delightful Pasaje de la Defensa (Defensa, 1179). Originally owned by the Ezeiza family, it was built in 1880 and is now home to a number of bustling souvenir and bric-a-brac shops.
Defensa is the main thoroughfare through San Telmo and where most of the antiques shops lie. There’s an abundance of period furniture and items for the home and you’ll find anything from art deco English bathroom tiles to Tiffany lamps. If do see something you’d like to take home, most of the antique dealers can organize shipping for you, just ask.
The main attraction though has to be the Sunday afternoon antiques market in Plaza Dorrego. Over 250 stalls are set up in and around the plaza and they’re an absolute pleasure to walk around. Vendors sell anything and everything from past Buenos Aires memorabilia including (reconditioned) gramophones and Bakelite telephones as well as photographs, soda bottles and old dolls.
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The market is a fabulous feast for the senses and an absolute must-do. It’s the perfect place to pick a small souvenir that will fit in your suitcase. Stuart and I wanted to bring back a number of things; we were even tempted by an old 1940s radio!
The market is also a great place to see the decorative painting style of fileteado. There are several stalls in the market selling colorful signs, placards and house names that can be personalized on request. In fact, you’ll see this style of sign painting on many of the shops and cafes’ frontages in San Telmo – it’s very popular and seems to be making a comeback.
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Set around the plaza are a number of cafes and restaurants. (I’d suggest just staying for a drink as the food isn’t all that great, if you’re hungry, you can find some suggestions below.) If you can find a seat outside, it’s the perfect place to watch the world go by, better still there’s a couple of balconies overlooking the square – if you can find a space on one of these then you’re onto a winner.
In the south west corner of the plaza, you’ll find performances by nibble young tango dancers. At the other end of the plaza, you’ll find a more weathered milongero and his partner dancing rather dubiously, but they’ve been around for years and are now almost as famous as the market. After the antiques market has packed up, the square turns into an open air milonga where dancers from all around gather and enjoy the warm evening sun.
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The area is renowned for its tango (although most areas of Buenos Aires claim some stake in the development and history of the dance). There are tango venues dotted all over San Telmo, but one of the best shows in town can be found at El Viego Almacén (Avenida Indepencia 300, San Telmo, 4307 7388) which is visited by tourists and locals alike and is favored for being an atmospheric venue. It’s quite small so you can get up close and personal which is a stark contrast to the Broadway shows, although the show itself is pretty similar to the others around.
You’ll also find numerous orchestras set up along Defensa. They’re fascinating to watch and will often give out flyers stating where their next show will be. The heady music adds to the atmosphere and makes wandering around the streets thoroughly enjoyable.
Taking a few diversions off Defensa is a must. There are plenty of arts and crafts stalls vying for your attention but don’t forget to look up. The crumbling buildings with the dilapidated balconies and decorative wrought iron window bars appear from behind the canopy of stalls and the true charm of San Telmo appears.
If you’re spending time in San Telmo, you can also be treated to some good, reasonably priced food. There are three restaurants that come recommended:
- Cafe San Juan (4300 1112) on Avenida San Juan 450, does great Spanish tapas. The food is good and I’d recommend just having a few tapas dishes. If you can, book in advance as it’s very popular with the locals and reservations are must.
- Mitico Sur (4362 4750) on Pasaje San Lorenzo 389, is great for the flavors of Patagonia. You’ll find delicious picadas (platters) with a selection of different fish and pates. Perfect for sharing.
- El Desnivel (4300 9081) on Defensa 885 is a lively steakhouse filled with tourists and locals alike. The service and food are excellent, but be prepared to wait for a table as it’s very popular.
Discover more about these and other great places to eat in Buenos Aires.
San Telmo’s nightlife is also picking up. Not only are several decent restaurants springing up there are also plenty of bars and at night it’s becoming the barrio of choice for tourists and locals alike. The main areas for drinking are Balcarce and Estados Unidos.
Return from San Telmo to Buenos Aires Neighborhoods
